Step back in time, explore a unique Paris neighborhood and learn something about 1st-century acoustics
By Kristen Feathers
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The Arènes de Lutèce, built between the 1st and the end of the
2nd century, once collected upwards of 15,000. This arena and
Thermes de Cluny at the Musée de Cluny are the only remains of
the Gallo-Roman period still visible in Paris.
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PARIS – “Oh. Is this it?”
At first glance, the Arènes de Lutècemight underwhelm. Standing in the center, you will be hard-pressed to sense the wonder that this place must once have been.
But give it even a little more attention and you will see how the shape of this Roman ruin, once an amphitheater (and, functionally, still one), fans out, like hands reaching toward the sky. Its walls, weathered and worn by time and use, still stand, some sections less the wear than others. Of course graffiti appears on almost every surface, rudely puncturing a visitor’s sense of time travel. Paris’s ubiquitous construction, too, threatens the mood.
You might be tempted to cut your losses and go find a crepe stand. Fight this temptation. Remember why you came here in the first place: You are, in fact, standing in a Roman arena. It is, therefore, a landscape worth closely reading.
For example, notice the three stone seats that are elevated, as if to emphasize the importane of those who once sat upon them? What about what could have been a cage underneath the wall of the south entrance. There is no plaque to provide any explanation. Perhaps the chairs were exclusively for Roman dignitaries, the cage for ravenous lions to be unleashed on the day’s death match participants. This is a space for the imagination.
Along with many other historical spaces in Paris, the Arènes de Lutèce is obviously one that is very much still in use, albeit for purposes in no way connected to their Roman origins. Located at 49 Rue Monge, the vibes of the local neighborhood can be sensed here. Nestled between city side streets, the arena has the rare luxury of being isolated from most tourists. In fact, the site seems to discernibly belong to the neighborhood in which it is situated. Paris might orient many of its areas around prominent landmarks; this is not one of them.
To underline this point, the site’s well-worn grounds are perfect for boules or baseball, so that is in fact how they are often used. The arena’s terraces make for ideal picnic placements, while the adjacent garden paths provide a pleasant surprise for those who just want to wander.
You will see local children kicking a soccer ball. You will see couples walking with hand-in-hand. You will see families picnicking. You won’t see many tourists.
So, perhaps the Arènes de Lutèce isn’t of the same caliber as, say, the Cathedral of Notre Dame or the Eiffel Tower. People don’t travel from all over the world to get a selfie in the arena. But, for those attuned to the quieter and, in many ways, sweeter music Paris can play, this is a worthwhile side trip. But be sure to bring a baseball, a baguette and a buddy.
Arènes de Lutèce: 49 rue Monge, in the Latin Quarter
Open: All the time